Complete Car Building Guide

Overview

Building the Corris Rivett is the ultimate challenge in My Winter Car. Based on the legendary Ford Pinto engine, this project transforms a rusty shell into a 99hp winter warrior capable of conquering ice, snow, and the frozen wasteland of Peräjärvi.

This guide provides a complete step-by-step assembly process, from finding your donor car to final testing. Expect 20-40 hours of gameplay, 25,000-50,000+ mk in costs, and immense satisfaction.

Pre-Build Planning

Financial Preparation

This is an expensive project. Budget accordingly:

| Category | Low End | High End | Notes | |----------|---------|----------|-------| | Vehicle Purchase | 15,000 mk | 25,000 mk | Project car quality varies | | Engine & Transmission | 3,000 mk | 8,000 mk | Block, head, gearbox | | Suspension & Brakes | 2,000 mk | 4,000 mk | Springs, shocks, discs | | Electrical & Interior | 1,500 mk | 3,000 mk | Harness, seats,仪表盘 | | Body & Paint | 2,000 mk | 5,000 mk | Panels, rust repair | | Tools & Equipment | 500 mk | 1,500 mk | If you don't have them | | Labor (Fleetari) | 2,000 mk | 5,000 mk | Complex work | | Total Project | 26,000 mk | 51,500 mk | Complete build |

Before Starting:

1. Secure Futufon job (1,500-2,000 mk/day) - Essential income
2. Save 30,000+ mk minimum - For parts and emergencies
3. Plan 2-3 months - This takes time
4. Secure garage space - Somewhere to work (abandoned house garage works)

Skill Assessment

Required Skills:

• Basic mechanical knowledge - Engine components, fasteners
• Patience - Things will go wrong
• Problem solving - When parts don't fit
• Budget management - Costs spiral easily
• Winter resilience - Working in cold conditions

You'll Learn:

• Engine rebuilding
• Transmission repair
• Suspension geometry
• Electrical systems
• Bodywork basics
• Painting techniques

Finding Your Project Car

Where to Look:

1. Classifieds Magazine (PSK) - Primary source, refreshes every 2-3 days
2. Teimo's pub - Word-of-mouth sales
3. Abandoned locations - Kesselinperä peninsula
4. Scrap yards - Fleetari knows sources

What to Buy:

| Condition | Price Range | Description | Recommendation | |-----------|-------------|-------------|----------------| | Running | 20,000-25,000 mk | Drives but needs work | Expensive but complete | | Non-running | 15,000-20,000 mk | Engine/trans issues | Best value | | Parts car | 8,000-12,000 mk | Shell, some parts | Cheapest, needs everything |

Inspection Checklist:

• [ ] Check VIN matches title
• [ ] Inspect body for major rust (killer)
• [ ] Verify engine completeness (no major missing parts)
• [ ] Check transmission (manual vs automatic)
• [ ] Verify all four wheels present
• [ ] Check interior (seats,仪表盘)
• [ ] Test electrical (lights, wipers, radio)
• [ ] Look for signs of accident damage

Red Flags:

• Excessive rust - Especially in frame rails
• Missing major components - Hard to source
• Flood damage - Electrical nightmares
• Title issues - Legal complications
• "Too good to be true" price - Usually is

Engine Assembly

Engine Selection & Teardown

Options:

Complete Engine (Easiest):

• Already assembled
• Less work but more expensive
• Risk of unknown internal condition
• Recommended for beginners

Short Block (Recommended):

• Block + crankshaft + pistons
• You add head, manifolds, accessories
• Better value
• Control over components

Long Block (Best Value):

• Block + head + valve train
• Add accessories, manifolds
• Best balance of work/value

Teardown Process:

1. Drain all fluids - Oil, coolant, fuel
2. Remove accessories - Alternator, water pump, starter
3. Remove intake/exhaust manifolds
4. Remove valve cover
5. Remove cylinder head (12-13mm bolts)
6. Remove timing components - Belt, pulleys, tensioner
7. Remove oil pan
8. Remove pistons/connecting rods
9. Remove crankshaft

Critical Engine Components

2.0L OHC Engine Specs:

| Component | Specification | Notes | |-----------|---------------|-------| | Displacement | 1993cc (2.0L) | Inline-4 cylinder | | Bore x Stroke | 95 x 70.4mm | Oversquare design | | Compression | 9.2:1 (stock) | Higher compression available | | Valvetrain | SOHC (Single OHC) | Belt-driven camshaft | | Firing Order | 1-3-4-2 | Standard pattern | | Horsepower | 99 hp @ 5500 RPM | Stock rating | | Torque | 154 Nm @ 3700 RPM | Peak torque location |

Wear Points:

• Main bearings - Check for scoring, replace if worn
• Rod bearings - Common failure point
• Cylinder walls - Check for ridge, wear patterns
• Valve guides - Check for excessive play
• Cam lobes - Check for wear, pitting

Engine Rebuild Steps

Step 1: Block Preparation

1. Clean thoroughly - Pressure wash
2. Inspect for cracks - Especially around cylinders
3. Check cylinder bores - Measure for wear, out-of-round
4. Deck surface - Check for warping
5. Main bearing caps - Inspect journals, cap condition
6. Oil passages - Ensure clear

Step 2: Crankshaft

1. Measure journals - Main, rod
2. Check runout - Dial indicator test
3. Inspect for cracks - Magnetic particle inspection
4. Polish journals - To smooth finish
5. Install in block - With main bearings

Step 3: Pistons & Rods

1. Measure piston diameters - Compare to cylinder
2. Check ring end gaps - File to spec if needed
3. Install piston rings - Oil control, compression
4. Assemble pistons to rods - Ensure correct orientation
5. Install rod bearings - Check clearances
6. Install in cylinders - Use ring compressor

Step 4: Cylinder Head

1. Inspect valve train - Camshaft, lifters, rocker arms
2. Valve guide service - Ream oversize if needed
3. Valve seats - Cut or grind to spec
4. Valve springs - Check installed height, pressure
5. Install valves - With new seals
6. Camshaft bearing - Check clearances
7. Install camshaft - With lifters
8. Rocker arms - Adjust lash after installation

Step 5: Timing Belt System (CRITICAL)

1. Install crank sprocket - Ensure TDC alignment
2. Install cam sprocket - Align timing marks
3. Install aux shaft sprocket - Drives oil pump/distributor
4. Route timing belt - Follow correct path
5. Install tensioner - Apply proper tension
6. Rotate engine 2 full revolutions - Check alignment
7. Set final tension - Per spec (not too tight!)

⚠️ CRITICAL WARNING: Timing Belt Installation

• This is an INTERFERENCE ENGINE
• Incorrect timing = bent valves
• Follow TDC procedures exactly
• Use NEW belt, tensioner, idlers
• Double-check alignment marks

Engine Assembly Completion

Step 6: Lower End

1. Install oil pan - With new gasket
2. Install oil pump - Driven by aux shaft
3. Main bearing caps - Torque to spec (14mm bolts)
4. Rod bearing caps - Torque to spec (10-11mm bolts)

Step 7: Cylinder Head Installation

1. Install head gasket - NEW gasket only
2. Install head - 12-13mm bolts
3. Torque sequence - Center-out spiral pattern
4. Install valve cover - With new gasket

Step 8: Accessories

1. Water pump - Driven by timing belt
2. Oil filter - New filter, proper oil
3. Alternator bracket - Mount alternator
4. Starter motor - 13mm bolts
5. Fuel pump - Mechanical, side of block

Step 9: Manifolds

1. Exhaust manifold - 11mm bolts, watch for cracks
2. Intake manifold - 10mm bolts, check gasket
3. Carburetor - 8mm nuts, tune later

Transmission & Drivetrain

Transmission Options

4-Speed Manual:

• Standard gearbox
• Lower first gear (better for snow)
• Higher cruising RPM
• Simpler, more reliable
• Recommended for beginners

5-Speed Manual:

• Overdrive 5th gear
• Better highway fuel economy
• Lower engine RPM at speed
• More complex
• Better for long trips

3-Speed Automatic:

• Torque converter
• Harder to rock out of snow
• Less control
• ATF fluid required
• Avoid if possible

Manual Transmission Teardown

Disassembly Steps:

1. Drain fluid - Remove drain plug
2. Remove gearbox - From engine
3. Remove shifter - External linkage
4. Remove cover - Access internal gears
5. Disassemble gear train - Synchros, bearings
6. Inspect synchros - Common wear point
7. Check bearings - Play, roughness
8. Measure clearances - Syncro engagement

Common Issues:

• Worn synchros - Hard to shift
• Bearing noise - Whining, grinding
• Worn gears - Play in transmission
• Bad seals - Fluid leaks

Clutch System

Components:

• Flywheel - 17mm bolts to crank
• Clutch disc - Friction material, wears out
• Pressure plate - 10mm bolts, clamps disc
• Release bearing - Activates pressure plate
• Hydraulic system - Master/slave cylinder

Clutch Replacement:

1. Remove transmission
2. Remove pressure plate - 10mm bolts, even pattern
3. Inspect flywheel - Check for cracks, scoring
4. Install new disc - Facing direction matters
5. Install pressure plate - Torque evenly
6. Bleed hydraulic system - Remove air bubbles
7. Reinstall transmission

Adjustment:

• Pedal free play - 10-15mm typical
• Clutch engagement - Should engage smoothly
• No slippage - Under load

Driveshaft & Differential

Driveshaft:

• Bolts to differential - 11-12mm
• U-joints wear - Common failure
• Symptom: Vibration at speed

Rear Axle:

• Live axle design - Solid unit
• Open differential - Standard
• LSD option - Limited slip, better in snow
• Lube regularly - Check level

Suspension & Brakes

Front Suspension

MacPherson Strut Design:

• Spring - Coils support weight
• Strut - Dampens movement
• Control arm - Locates wheel
• Sway bar - Reduces roll

Disassembly:

1. Support vehicle safely - Jack stands
2. Remove wheel - Lug nuts
3. Disconnect sway bar - Link ends
4. Remove strut bolts - Top and bottom
5. Remove strut assembly
6. Compress spring - Spring compressor
7. Replace components - Springs, struts, mounts

Installation:

1. Install new spring - Compressed in strut
2. Assemble strut - New mount, bearing
3. Install in vehicle - Torque to spec
4. Connect sway bar - New links
5. Alignment - Get alignment after install

Rear Suspension

4-Link Live Axle:

• Upper links - Control axle movement
• Lower links - Support weight
• Panhard bar - Locates axle laterally
• Coil springs - Support rear weight

Service Steps:

1. Support axle - Bottle jack
2. Remove springs - Compress, release
3. Remove links - 14mm bolts typical
4. Inspect bushings - Common wear
5. Install new components - Torque to spec
6. Reinstall springs - Ensure proper seat

Brake System

Front Brakes:

• Disc brakes - Calipers, rotors
• Pistons - In caliper
• Pads - Friction material, wear out

Rear Brakes:

• Drum brakes - Shoes, wheel cylinder
• Self-adjusters - Maintain clearance
• Parking brake - Cable system

Brake Service:

1. Remove wheel
2. Remove caliper - 17mm bolts
3. Remove pads - Inspect for wear
4. Inspect rotor - Check thickness, runout
5. Replace pads - Use quality pads
6. Bleed system - New fluid
7. Test brakes - Before driving

⚠️ BRAKE SAFETY:

• Never drive with bad brakes
• Use quality parts
• Properly bleed system
• Test thoroughly

Electrical System

Wiring Harness

Major Circuits:

• Ignition - Coil, distributor, plugs
• Charging - Alternator, battery, voltage regulator
• Lighting - Headlights, taillights, signals
• Accessories - Wipers, radio, heater

Diagnostic Steps:

1. Check battery - 12.6V minimum
2. Check ground connections - Clean, tight
3. Check fuses - Visual inspection
4. Check voltage - At various points
5. Trace circuits - Using wiring diagram

Ignition System

Components:

• Distributor - Points or electronic
• Coil - Generates high voltage
• Spark plugs - 4 required
• Plug wires - Carry voltage to plugs

Timing:

• Base timing - Set with timing light
• Advance - Mechanical and vacuum
• Total advance - 30-35 degrees typical

Tune-Up Procedure:

1. Set gap - Points or electronic pickup
2. Time engine - With timing light
3. Adjust idle - 700-800 RPM
4. Gap plugs - 0.7-0.8mm typical
5. Set mixture - CO reading if possible

Charging System

Alternator Testing:

1. Engine off - Battery voltage ~12.6V
2. Engine running - 13.8-14.4V
3. Load test - Turn on lights, heater
4. Voltage should hold - Not drop much

Common Issues:

• Bad alternator - No charging
• Bad voltage regulator - Over/under charge
• Bad battery - Won't hold charge
• Loose belt - Squealing, no charge

Fuel & Induction System

Carburetor Setup

Single-Barrel Downdraft:

• Main jet - Controls fuel at cruise
• Idle jet - Controls fuel at idle
• Power jet - Extra fuel under load
• Accelerator pump - Gives gas on throttle

Tuning for Winter:

1. Start engine - Let warm up
2. Set idle - 700-800 RPM
3. Adjust mixture - Lean until rough, richen slightly
4. Test drive - Check for hesitation
5. Adjust for temperature - Richer in cold

Winter Settings:

• AFR 13.5-14.0 - Richer than summer
• Cold air denser - Needs more fuel
• Block heater helps - Easier starting

Fuel System

Mechanical Fuel Pump:

• Driven by aux shaft - Eccentric lobe
• Location - Side of block
• Pressure - 3-5 PSI typical
• Common failure - Diaphragm tears

Fuel Lines:

• From tank to pump - Check for cracks
• Pump to carb - Check for leaks
• Vapor lines - Vapors to charcoal canister

Interior & Exterior

Interior Components

Seats:

• Front buckets - Driver and passenger
• Rear bench - 2+2 configuration
• Bolts - 12-14mm typically
• Tracks - May need lubrication

Dashboard:

• Instrument cluster - Speedometer, tach
• Switches - Lights, wipers, heater
• Radio - Aftermarket likely
• Wiring - Check connections

Exterior Bodywork

Rust Repair:

• Identify rust - Bubbles, holes
• Cut out bad metal - Until clean steel
• Weld patches - Sheet metal
• Grind smooth - Prepare for filler
• Body filler - Bondo, rage, etc.
• Prime and paint - Final finish

Body Panels:

• Hood - May need alignment
• Fenders - Check for dents
• Doors - Latch alignment
• Trunk - Hinge lubrication

Testing & Break-In

Initial Start-Up

Before Starting:

1. Check all fluids - Oil, coolant, brake fluid
2. Prime oil system - Crank with starter
3. Verify timing - Double-check marks
4. Fuel system - Pressurize, check for leaks
5. Battery fully charged - For testing

Start Procedure:

1. Turn key - Don't touch throttle
2. If starts - Let idle, check for leaks
3. If no start - Check fuel, spark, timing
4. Gradually increase RPM - Up to 2000 RPM
5. Listen for noises - Knocks, rattles

⚠️ WARNING:

• If you hear valve contact - IMMEDIATELY SHUT OFF
• Timing is wrong - Damage likely
• Check belt alignment - Before restart

Break-In Procedure

First 500 km:

1. Vary RPM - Don't lug engine
2. No wide open throttle - Gentle driving
3. Check oil level - Frequently
4. Listen for noises - Any new sounds
5. Monitor temperature - Should run cool

After 500 km:

1. Change oil - Remove metal particles
2. Check all bolts - May have loosened
3. Inspect for leaks - Gaskets may need retorque
4. Test drive - More aggressive driving OK

Final Adjustments

Engine:

1. Valve lash - Adjust per spec
2. Idle speed - Set correctly
3. Timing - Fine-tune with light
4. Mixture - CO check if possible

Transmission:

1. Clutch adjustment - Free play correct
2. Shifting - Should be smooth
3. No grinding - Synchros properly set

Suspension:

1. Alignment - Toe, camber, caster
2. Test drive - Check for pulling
3. Bounce test - Dampers working

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Engine Won't Start

No Spark:

• Check battery voltage
• Test ignition coil
• Check distributor points/electronic ignition
• Test spark plugs

No Fuel:

• Check fuel pump operation
• Pressurize carburetor
• Check fuel filter
• Check tank for fuel

Timing Off:

• Check timing marks alignment
• Verify belt installation
• Check crank keyway
• Verify cam lobe position

Rough Idle

Possible Causes:

• Vacuum leak (intake manifold)
• Ignition timing off
• Carburetor needs adjustment
• Faulty spark plug(s)
• Low compression

Diagnostic Steps:

1. Check for vacuum leaks - Spray carb cleaner, listen
2. Check timing - With timing light
3. Adjust carb - Idle mixture, speed
4. Test compression - Check cylinder health

Overheating

Causes:

• Low coolant level
• Bad thermostat
• Faulty water pump
• Blocked radiator
• Air in cooling system

Solutions:

1. Check coolant level - Fill if low
2. Test thermostat - Replace if faulty
3. Inspect water pump - Replace if bad
4. Flush radiator - Remove blockages
5. Bleed system - Remove air pockets

No Power

Possible Issues:

• Fuel filter clogged
• Ignition timing too advanced/retarded
• Carburetor jets clogged
• Compression low
• Exhaust restriction

Diagnostic Steps:

1. Check fuel delivery - Clean filter
2. Check timing - Adjust as needed
3. Clean carburetor - Remove jets, clean
4. Compression test - Check cylinder pressure
5. Check exhaust - Verify flow

Maintenance Schedule

After Build Completion

First Week:

• Daily: Check oil level
• Daily: Check coolant level
• After 100 km: Torque check bolts
• After 500 km: Oil change

First Month:

• Oil change (500 km)
• Coolant check
• Brake fluid check
• Belt tension check
• Tire pressure check

First 3 Months:

• Transmission fluid change
• Brake inspection
• Suspension inspection
• Alignment check
• Complete tune-up

Ongoing Maintenance:

• Oil change every 5,000 km
• Coolant change every 2 years
• Timing belt every 60,000 km
• Brake fluid every 2 years
• Transmission service every 30,000 km

Conclusion

Building the Corris Rivett is a massive undertaking but incredibly rewarding. You'll learn more about automotive mechanics than any other single project in My Winter Car.

Success Factors:

1. Secure stable income - This project costs 25k-50k+ mk
2. Take your time - Rushing leads to mistakes
3. Use quality parts - Cheap parts fail
4. Document everything - Take photos, notes
5. Get help when needed - Fleetari, forums, guides

The Result:

• A unique, hand-built classic
• Understanding of automotive systems
• 99hp winter warrior
• Pride of ownership
• Ultimate Peräjärvi survivor

Remember: This isn't just about building a car—it's about conquering the Finnish winter through mechanical mastery. The frozen wasteland awaits your creation.

Start with the basics, work methodically, and never skip the safety steps. Your Rivett (and your survival) depends on it.